I arrived in Vietnam on March 13, 1968. Joining the Amtrac Platoon of 2nd Battalion 4th Marines, I served the first six of my twenty months with them. It was during those six months, I was involved in the Battle of Dai Do, three of the worst days of my life. Now I am returning with other members of that Battalion for a 29th Anniversary Tour.

This is the story of my return to Vietnam. This is something I had always thought of doing since leaving there in 1969. On this trip we went in peace instead of war. This tour was a lot shorter than the first one. What an honor it was to be going with my old Commanding Officer, Brigadier General Bill Weise. (Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

We left my home in Vermontville, Michigan, with a certain amount of apprehension as to what we were heading for. We spent four days with four former platoon members in California. While there we talked about old times and went to visit another platoon member in Oceanside.

We returned to the Marine Recruit Depot in San Diego. This was my first visit there since Basic. Our welcome at the base was far different than the one I received in 1967. Lt. Col. Stevens, a former member of 2/4, welcomed us aboard. He was the Battalion Commander of the Second Recruit Training Battalion.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

With Col. Stevens as our escort, we toured the base. While observing a platoon of recruits on the obstacle course, we were amazed at how well they were treated by their Drill Instructors. They were less intense than our Drill Instructors in 1967. We were put into the famous yellow footprints by one Drill Instructor and that was like a flash back in time for us. I remember standing in those same footprints 31 years ago. Amazingly we fell right in like we were supposed to do, something we all thought we had forgotten.

Next, we went to Coronado Island and were amazed to see the USS Kitty Hawk in dock. The Kitty Hawk is the ship Ellis E. Austin flew his last mission from before being shot down over North Vietnam never to return in 1966. Austin was a three-war veteran from my hometown of Vermontville. He was shot down just two weeks before he was due to return home and his retirement from the Navy. This was emotional for my wife and I, because we still hold out hope for something to be returned from Vietnam regarding Austin. It was kind of ironic to be standing on her flight deck 31 years and a day after his disappearance.

On Wednesday, we went to Camp Pendleton to see the Amtrac Museum. Amtracs are what we drove in Vietnam. It is an amphibious vehicle used by the Marine corps to move troops ship to shore during amphibious assaults. We are giving up our age when we see the same type of vehicle we drove as museum pieces. We had the privilege of crawling inside of one, and showing my wife what it was like to be in one.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

I think we all delayed getting ready to go for our flight to Vietnam on Thursday hoping we would wake up and find out it was a dream. We flew Singapore Airlines and were pleased with the service we received on the flight. Part of the tour group flew from the West Coast and the rest of the group from the East Coast. We stopped in Tokyo and then on to Singapore. The 12-hour flight seemed like a lifetime and the 10-hour wait in Singapore was torture.

Our group of 2nd Battalion Fourth Marines finally departed for Hanoi and arrived there on the morning of April 26th. We realized we had arrived in Vietnam for real when we saw the red flag with the yellow star flying high above the airport terminal. Then seeing Mig fighters parked on the runways reinforced the feeling.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

Going through customs was easy and fast. It was far from what I feared it would be. We were soon aboard our bus for our 45-minute ride to downtown Hanoi and our hotel. The Thuy Tain Hotel was a shock to us as it was as good as any hotel in the states. I have stayed in places that would seem like a dive compared to this hotel.

We were treated almost like royalty while staying in this place and were impressed with the staff. We felt like they really wanted us there and went above and beyond to take care of our needs. Our hotels here in the states could take lessons from them.

After getting settled into our rooms it was off for a visit to the Hanoi Hilton. This was one of the prisons where American Prisoners of War were kept. There is a new hotel being built at this site but parts of the walls are still standing. I was partially inside the door shooting some video when one Vietnamese said no pictures. By then we already had shot our pictures and just moved on.

From there we went to a park located in downtown Hanoi where a Mig was on display. A few pieces of a B-52 were also on display and a SAM missile battery of the type that was used to shoot them down was also on display. The Mig was supposed to be the first one that shot down one of our B-52's. We all realized this was probably propaganda and just laughed about that.
(Photos compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

Later we were taken to a Vietnamese restaurant for our evening meal. Our entertainers were dressed in traditional clothing. The women were truly beautiful. When looking at the men, it was hard not to see the enemy we saw 30 years ago lying dead in the paddies of South Vietnam. Old memories, I would like to forget. After the meal we entertained the Vietnamese with singing of the Marine Corps Hymn. In honor of our Navy Corpsmen we also sang Anchors Away.

I don't think any of us slept too long our first night in Hanoi, partly from over exhaustion and partly from excitement. But the sleep we got was a good sound one. Day two saw us on our tour of Hanoi. A town filled with thousands of bikes and very few automobiles. It was amazing to see all this traffic and no reasonable pattern to it. They just seemed to go where they feel. We were amazed we did not see any accidents.

Our first stop of the day was at a statue showing Senator John McCain hanging from his parachute. This was where he was supposed to have been shot down and captured. I had brought my Marine Corps flag which I carried during my tour in Vietnam. So we pulled it out and everyone had his or her picture taken with it at the statue.

We next visited Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum. I was impressed with how tastefully this place was displayed. It is hard to express in words what I felt seeing Ho Chi Minh lying in state. He appeared as if he had just lain down to take a nap. Whenever one of his Honor Guards would look at me cold chills would run down my back.(Photos compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

We also toured Ho's home and the office where he worked. I was impressed by how stately the building was. It amazed me that we never bombed this building. How many American lives could have been saved if we would have bombed this one building and all of Hanoi? Once again I question our government's policy during the Vietnam War.

Our next stop was at the Temple of Literature. This was very beautiful and our only Temple stop. Our Vietnamese guide explained how and why this Temple was built in great detail. I felt it was one of the best sites we visited while in Hanoi.

We visited the War Museum next and I was not impressed with this place, as it was mostly a propaganda display. The Dien Bien Phu exhibit was the only thing of any real interest and I was amazed at the display and video for this exhibit. I did have the opportunity to discuss my war experiences with a Canadian schoolteacher who was touring the country on her own. She was a very interesting person to talk with while at the Museum.

We stopped at the new American Embassy and delivered a plaque for the Ambassador from the 2/4 Association. General Weise and Ed Garr presented it to a representative. We were not allowed inside but did take pictures of our Marine Corps flag outside of the Embassy. I was not impressed with this building, as it was very small.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

At the end of the day we went shopping and what a trip it was. We found some real good bargains and had a great time. We learned to not accept the first price given but to barter for a lower price. Most of the people spoke English well enough to converse. But you found yourself not using complete sentences when talking to them. It was a very interesting experience for us to be walking around Hanoi as if we were back in Vermontville. At no time during our visit did we feel we were being threatened.

Day three was an early wake up call to catch the flight on to DaNang to begin touring the places most of us Marines fought in so long ago. For many of us this was the toughest part of our tour emotionally. I was filled with nervous tension as we landed on the runway in DaNang. It had been 28 years since I had left this same place to return home after my tour in Vietnam was completed. After collecting our baggage we sang the Marine Hymn in front of the airport terminal, as we had done on our departure from our Hotel in Hanoi. (Photo compliments of Kelly Williams)

We boarded our buses and headed for Hue City by passing through the Hai Van Pass. This was a very beautiful ride. The ride into Hue was an emotional event for us. One of our fellow tourists had fought in Hue. He had a hard time describing his part in the battle as we rode into the city. He had been wounded in the head and spent a lengthy recovery period in the hospital and this was the first time he spoke of the battle to anyone. It was an emotionally healing experience for him.

After checking into another fabulous Hotel complete with a swimming pool we took a tour of Hue. My wife and I planned on reaffirming our wedding vows in Hue, so we purchased traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai for the occasion. Very reasonably priced and tailor made in one day.

This evening we ran into another American, John, who had also fought in the Battle of Dai Do but was not touring with our group. He had a very interesting and bizarre tale to tell about his experiences during the battle that he allowed me to put on tape as he related his story to us.

Roger Pittman who served as a Corpsmen during the same battle also told us the story of Sgt. O'Bannon who was killed 1968 and his successful efforts to see him awarded the Silver Star for his bravery 29 years ago. The award was presented to his widow on June 5, 1997 at Camp Pendleton.

Day four was spent touring Hue. Earl told us his story about the battle as we set in a church in downtown Hue. I don't think there was a dry eye in the place as he told the story. We were all affected hearing a first hand account of how hard this fight had been.

We toured the Citadel and were surprised at how large it actually is. It is one of the most beautiful places I saw in all of Vietnam. I realized the job our Marines must have had trying to clear the North Vietnamese out of here during Tet of 68. I was also thankful that I was not there to help.

After the tour I took a cyclo ride to the market to look for souvenirs. What a wild place this was as thousands of items were on sale, from silks to fish; this place had it all. At times the smell of the place almost made me sick. It was indeed an interesting place to see.

At our dinner at the hotel this evening we had the company of a couple of government representatives from the Mayor's office. They sang a song in honor of my wife and I getting married again. She was just gorgeous as the General walked her up to me. After saying the vows a wedding cake appeared. It was the biggest shock of the whole trip to see that wedding cake.
(Photo compliments of Captain Ed Garr, USMC (Ret).)

Day 5 we headed out early for Khe Sanh. We took route 1 out of Hue to Dong Ha and than route 9 to the DMZ. I could not help but notice how many more Water Buffalo we saw on the drive north. These docile animals were in herds and I just loved seeing them.

Our first stop of the day was at the site where Camp Carroll had been located. Would you believe we were ambushed on the way into Camp? While riding through one village a rock struck the rear window with a loud crack. It completely shattered the window and scared my wife who was sitting under the spot where the rock hit the window. No one was injured but plenty scared.

The Province Chief for Quang Tri was riding on our bus at the time and he spent about two hours with the Village Elders. He issued punishment for the village before we left. We were never told what the punishment was, but are sure it was pretty severe.

I went out on my own to film some farmers as they plowed their fields with their water buffalo. One indicated that I could try my hand with his bull. So I showed him how to work my video camera and away I went with the bull and wooden plow. I am sure that I made their day, as they were laughing pretty hard over my efforts. It was fun to plow by this ancient method as long as I did not have to make my living this way.

Back in the village where we had been ambushed I was invited into the hut of one elderly Vietnamese and offered a cup of tea. This hut was very plain with dirt floor and thatch walls and roof. I was honored to be invited to share a few minutes with this gentleman. It is one of the reasons I made this trip back to Vietnam so that I could meet the local people of this country.

I also walked back to a Brue Village and shared cigarettes with these simple tribesmen who were such good fighters during the war. It really makes one appreciate the things we have at home when you see how some of the people have to struggle just to survive.

Before arriving in Khe Sanh we also stopped at places such as Cam Lo Bridge, the Eagles Nest, Rock Pile, and Lang Veih. All places of fierce fighting during the War. It was strange to be in these now quiet, peaceful, and beautiful hills of Vietnam. It was another day to reflect back upon the sacrifices made by my fellow servicemen who fought and died in this very area.

Seeing Khe Sanh was not what I expected. As I read the accounts of the battle, as it was being waged 29 years ago, I had no idea of the size of the place. Now there is nothing left to indicate the horror and fear the Marines who endured the siege must have felt. Just a flat area with a pepper plantation now in it's place.

We returned to our hotel in Hue and spent one last night alongside the beautiful Perfume River before our visit to Dong Ha and on to the sites we fought in during the Battle of Dai Do. I was not sure how I would react when we got to this area, as this is where I saw the most and the worst fighting during my tour of duty.

Day 5 and we started visiting some of the areas that I operated in. Some of them were vaguely familiar. When we were here in 68 things were not pretty and the vegetation was sparse. Now everything is green and growing again and very pretty. The villages were once again inhabited and the people very friendly.

Our friend, Doc Pittman, related the story of how my Amtrac Platoon saved a squad of Marines he was with in this area. Over the next few days we heard from others about what they remembered about the battles we fought here. For the first time we will know what the big picture really was. General Weise, our Commanding Officer at the time, filled us in as we traveled the countryside.

We had our afternoon lunch in a small village on the banks of Jones Creek by the name of Ne Ha. This village was the site of fierce battles between the NVA and us. It seemed strange to be having lunch along the banks of this now peaceful place, and remembering how we feared being here 29 years ago. I quietly said a prayer for all of those who died here so long ago. (Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

Twenty-nine years ago there were no villages left in this area, only NVA. Anything that moved was enemy and a danger to us. The rice paddies were not worked. Today the paddies are full and green with rice crops. The villages are once again filled with people and the sound of children's laughter. It is hard to visualize the terror I felt in this place so long ago, when today all I feel is peace.

We returned to our Hotel in Dong Ha before our journey into the village of Dai Do. This is where we lost 81 men killed and over 300 wounded in the three days of battle we fought here. I blanked most of this out of my mind and only hope that it does not come back to haunt me after we visit it once again.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

On day six we were joined my Mr. Hann former Viet Cong Commander who fought against us during the Battle of Dai Do. At the time he was headman for the Viet Cong in the area and was flown here from Hanoi. He lives in a place of honor there for his efforts and bravery during the War. We met him just before boarding our sampan for the trip down the Cua Viet River and our return to the village of Dai Do.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

General Weise and Mr. Hann are both filling us in on the battle as we travel. Mr. Hann has told the General that we faced 3 full regiments of the 320th. N.V.A. Division. We had suspected that much but were surprised when he revealed three full companies of Viet Cong reinforced them. You can figure we fought against 5000-7000 enemy troops. Our Battalion at the time had only field strength of about 600 men. I was startled to say the least by this information, as I had no idea what we had actually faced so long ago.

We respect the fight those brave troops gave us and are proud of the fact that we stopped them cold. If we had not met them and stopped them they would have overrun the 3rd. Marine Division Headquarters at Dong Ha. The propaganda value gained had they been successful would have been enormous. This battle was not very well known but was among some of the heaviest of the Vietnam War. I am proud to have served with this unit during this battle.

General Weise had a wooden turtle he has carried with him for 29 years. The turtle came out of a temple that had been destroyed in the village of Mai Xai Chang. It was a pretty emotional moment when he returned this turtle to the new temple that had been erected in this village.

We also held a memorial service for those who died during the battle, both the Marines and the enemy we had fought. This was held on the banks of the Cua Viet River in the village of Dai Do. Mr. Hann kept the villagers from using the path where we stood while we paid our respects. He later said that they do the same thing and have a service to honor the ones that had died fighting.

While we traveled up the river I had a chance to visit with Mr. Hann. We discussed our families and the battle we both had been involved in. We both realized how much we enjoyed our conversation and shared our respect for one another as only warriors can. At the end of our conversation he gave me the tie clasp he was wearing. It had a Playboy bunny on it. I hope to be able to meet this fine man at some time in the future. The hug and the handshake he gave me was one of the most sincere I have ever felt. A very brave and noble warrior he was.

The heat was very severe that day. We ran out of water so our visit was cut shorter than had been planned. I was off loaded on the edge of Mai Ze Chang village and gathered some beach sand to take home from the shore where we used to land our Amtracs so many years ago. The others sang the Marine Corps Hymn as I made this landing by wading ashore. What pride I felt to be given this honor.

Mr. Hann joined us for our evening meal and we were honored to have him with us. We will all be glad to leave our hotel in the morning for our return to DaNang and another fine hotel. The hotel there was the pits and is not recommended as a stopping place, if you can avoid it. We were thankful our stay there was for only two nights.

We also went into Dong Ha to meet officials and make a donation of money and school supplies to schools in three villages we had fought in. This was very formal and uncomfortable for my wife and I. It must have been the communist flag and the bust of Uncle Ho we were sitting in front of. Both sides made speeches. One by General Weise and myself as we presented our gifts to the people. The head official in Dong Ha told us how thankful they were for the gifts and how glad they were we had come to visit. He expressed his hopes for continued relations with the Americans and how he hoped peace and good will would prevail for centuries between our two countries. (Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

On Day 7 we left our Hotel and visited Con Tien. It was a big fire support base that over looked the DMZ during the war. We were cautioned by our guides to be on the look out for unexploded ordinance in the area. One of the locals also indicated to be careful and watch where we walked because of unexploded mines. This was another very beautiful place that was the scene of death and destruction so many years ago.

One village child of about 14 took my wife by the hand to lead her to the summit and than led us back down to safety when we were ready to leave. Very touching, those precious moments spent with these friendly people. We looked at the rubber plantation and saw for the first time how rubber is collected. Reminded me of collecting Maple Syrup back home.

Our final stop before leaving for DaNang was the Ben Hai River. This river was the separation point between North and South Vietnam during the War. We walked across the Peace Bridge and had a group photo taken. Then, with General Weise on one side and me on the other side of my Marine Corps flag, we marched back into South Vietnam singing the Marine Hymn. The pride I felt at doing this can not be described with words. It was one of those moments one just has to experience.

Our hotel in DaNang is a very nice one and brings back many memories for me. It is located along side of the river that runs into the Harbor. In 1969 we drove our Amtracs up this river and parked them about a quarter mile from the location of this hotel. The field we parked in is now gone and a village has taken its place. Things have changed greatly in the past 30 years.

We had what we could call our first meal that is close to what we have at home; Hamburgers and French-fries at a place called Christi's and how good they tasted. Not our style of hamburgers but the best we have tasted for what seems like a lifetime.

We had a cyclo driver take us there and they waited for us while we ate dinner and then took us for a tour before returning us to our hotel. Their fee for the services rendered was only $1.00, They would remain with us throughout our visit in DaNang and be ready to take us anywhere we wanted to go.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

On day 8 we toured DaNang and all the places where the different Marine bases were located. Nothing looks the same as the communist wiped out all signs of our presence here when they took over in 1975. We climbed Marble Mountain for a spectacular view of the area. We also went inside where a Viet Cong hospital was maintained right under our very noses during the war. A very impressive sight to see. The marble carvings are unbelievable and extremely inexpensive.

Our next stop was at the famous China Beach area. We donned our swimsuits and went for a refreshing swim. Vietnamese children who were having a lot of fun playing and laughing surrounded me. Afterwards, we purchased some real nice marble carvings before returning to the hotel for the night.

On our ninth day some of the group went to Chu Lai to visit the area of Operation Starlight. My wife and I stayed and toured the city of DaNang, as we wanted to shop. Our friendly cyclo drivers drove us all day long and watched over our purchases as we visited the museums in the city. At the end of the day we gave them $7.00 for their efforts. It is amazing how inexpensive things were there.
(Photo compliments of Kelly Jo Williams)

Day 10 and our departure from DaNang for Saigon were given a roaring send off as Migs were flying from the air base that morning. I wanted to dive for a bunker when we got to the airport as they were making their landings when we arrived. I managed to get some decent shots of them from our window on the plane as we were departing for Saigon.

Upon arrival in Saigon we went by the old American Embassy. I was amazed at the size of it. All of the past pictures I have seen have not done justice to just how big this place is, I remember seeing news reports from this same spot. The most vivid news report being the evacuation in 1975.

Later we went to the Presidential Palace. I felt disgust as I looked at how lavish this place is. I thought of all the peasants who are barely surviving and how the leaders of that country were living in luxury. No wonder the commies took over. It was easy to see the amount of money wasted for this palace. What a disgraceful waste the palace was.

I was not at all impressed with Saigon. Too many people and not many of them spoke English. They wanted payment in Dong instead of American money, just the opposite of Hanoi. There seemed to be a lot more bikes and cars on the Saigon streets than up north. The same hap hazard style of driving prevailed in that town as it did in Hanoi.

I did have a sirloin at the hotel that was just mouth watering. Service was a little slow but the wait was worth it. The hotel itself was top quality in comfort. I wish our American hotels were as nice. The lighting at night was a beautiful sight if you can put up with the traffic. We stayed at the Saigon Star about four blocks from the Hotel Rex where all of the reporters stayed during the War.

On day 11 we traveled to the Mekong Delta for a cruise on the Mekong River. We started out in a small sampan through the canals and than transferred to a bigger boat for the short trip to an island in the middle of the Mekong and lunch. Our Vietnamese guide spoke 5 languages and had some pretty good jokes to tell. The trip was relaxing once we were aboard the boats but the long ride in the bus was not as we were pretty much tired of the bus by then. That night we had our farewell dinner highlighted by a very stirring speech by the General. It will be sad when we reach Singapore and we split up.

Day 12 was our departure day and one we were ready for. Getting through customs was easy if you could put up with the rude customs agents. I wanted to reach out and slap them but I wanted to come home more. It took about 18 hours to get back to California. The first thing we did was to order a good American Hamburger and French-fries.

My reflections on this whole trip are good. We enjoyed our visit and only ask ourselves what this place would be like if we had won the war. Overall things looked pretty good in the country. It appears as if everything is positive there, the people appear happy, and things are peaceful. We saw no evidence of brutality while they're but I am sure 1975 was different. We saw no evidence of any POW's but there are a million places to have them hidden away. I would like to return again but not on a regular tour like this one. I would prefer to have my own agenda and not one structured by someone else and have more time to visit with the villagers more on a one to one basis.

It felt good to see places that were devastated by war rebuilt and doing well. I really enjoyed meeting the people and sharing this experience with Kelly.

The hopes of finding a worthwhile reason for the 58,022 names on the Wall never materialized.